The Twin Brothers Cooking Berlin in a Yan Nawa Villa
Thomas and Mathias Sühring have spent sixteen years in Bangkok cooking the food they grew up eating in Berlin. It now holds three Michelin stars, awarded in November 2025, and a house on Soi Yen Akat 3 that gives no clue what happens inside.
A 1970s villa on a residential lane off Yen Akat, set back from the road, wrapped in trees. No signage that argues for itself. Inside, the light is doing most of the talking — late-afternoon Bangkok filtered through greenery, landing on tables set for a version of German cooking that the twin brothers running the kitchen have been refining here since they arrived from Berlin.
Thomas and Mathias Sühring have been in Thailand roughly sixteen years. The restaurant has carried three Michelin stars since November 2025, when the third arrived, and sits at number 22 on the World's 50 Best list for 2025. The premise is straightforward enough to explain and considerably harder to execute: cook the food the brothers grew up on, in a city eight thousand kilometres from where those recipes were written down.
The Sührings have spent sixteen years proving German cooking can carry a fine-dining room without turning into a museum piece.
Editorial Deep
The menu covers a wider stretch of Germany than most visitors expect. Obatzda and Radler at one end — the Bavarian beer-garden cheese, reframed as a first course paired with the shandy it is normally eaten alongside. Brathering & Dill somewhere in the middle, a pickled-herring reference that would read as a corner-shop lunch anywhere in northern Germany. Himmel und Erde, the black pudding and potato dish that is Rhineland canteen food, pulled apart and reassembled. Spätzle, roast duck, lamb further along. What the kitchen is doing is regional Germany read as a tasting sequence — Bavaria, the North Sea, the Rhineland, Swabia — rather than a national cuisine averaged into one voice.
The room skews international at seven in the evening — European couples in their forties and fifties in soft tailoring, a handful of Bangkok expats who clearly come back, a table of Singaporean food-tourists comparing notes with the sommelier. Not a phone out. Not a jacket-and-tie room, but nobody is in shorts either. Children over six are technically permitted; on a midweek evening there were none.
The first sixty seconds set the tone. A host at the door of the villa, a walk through the garden path rather than straight into a lobby, coats taken, a pause at the table before menus appear. Nobody is rushing. The service throughout runs at the same tempo — knowledgeable on the German references without lecturing, warm rather than only polite, quick to notice a glass or a napkin. The wine list has more than twenty by the glass with real depth in Burgundy, Germany and cool-climate whites, and the sommelier can talk about Riesling for as long as the table wants and stop when the table stops.
Add 10% service and 7% VAT and the actual bill lands materially north of that, per person, before anything ordered outside the pairing. A couple can leave having spent close to a hotel-suite night for one meal, and the shock is not the food, it is the arithmetic. The lower menu tier with the entry-level wine pairing, or the juice pairing alongside either menu, is where the room's value actually sits.
The reason to come back is a seasonal one: game season, late autumn into winter, when the menu leans into venison, hare and the darker Rhineland cooking that the summer menu only glances at. That is the version of the kitchen most worth planning around, and it aligns neatly with November-to-February in Bangkok, which is the only stretch of the year the weather cooperates for the drive out to Yen Akat and a long dinner. A return every eighteen months to two years, timed to that window, is the right rhythm for a reader flying in.
What to eat
Don't miss.
Himmel und Erde; the roast duck when it appears on the menu
“The best German kitchen operating outside Germany, and the only one in Bangkok worth the ticket.”
Book about a month ahead through the venue's SevenRooms link, take the lower menu tier with the juice pairing unless German wine is the point of the evening, and go in November-to-February for the game menu. If a Bangkok-that-could-only-be-Bangkok dinner is what the trip is short of, book Sorn in Khlong Toei instead — the Southern Thai cooking there is doing something Sühring by design does not.
The Verdict
